Workbench: Screw Terminal Adapters and Lever-Nuts

Having collection of connectors with screw terminals or lever clamps is very useful.  In a pinch you could do a field-repair on a headset, a rig interface, or resurrect a broken power cord with just a pocket knife and a screwdriver.  Here are some of my favorites:

DC Barrel Connectors - these can be used to make a quick disconnect (in lieu of a switch) or an extension cord.  If you just want the plug to match an existing device, you'll have to measure the outer diameter and inner pin.  Most of the time the outer dimension is 5.5mm, and the inner pin is either 1.7mm, 2.1mm, or 2.5mm.

2.1 x 5.5mm paired DC Barrel Connectors
http://amzn.to/2bEavs4

TRS "Phono" Connectors - these are really useful for building test cables or attaching a rig interface to the ADC port on an Arduino or ESP8266.  When you get to the mountain for a SOTA activation and realize your 5 year-old has yanked the end off your headphones, you'll want one of these.

1/8" (3.5mm) Tip-Ring-Sleeve "phono male" plug
http://amzn.to/2bjqfOS

1/8" (3.5mm) Tip-Ring-Sleeve "phono female" jack
http://amzn.to/2bj6JVy


For pocket tools, I prefer the Leatherman ES4 Squirt.  (http://amzn.to/2bEe5lV) It's a ham's dream tool, with a wire stripping jaw, knife, scissors, file, and a screwdriver bit that works well on these screw terminal adapters.

Other interesting stuff....

Wago Lever-Nuts - these are really useful for quick repairs or experiments where you want to easily connect and disconnect wires.  You can use them to quickly add sections of wire for tuning dipole antennas.  Lift the lever, slide in a wire (or wires plural) and drop the lever - done.  Made a mistake?  Lift the lever, change, drop the lever.  They'll handle up to 400 VAC and 20 amps, so they can be used for household electrical repairs or rig power cords.  I keep a handful of these in my field bag, some my glove compartment, and a bunch on my bench.  I prefer the newer 221 Series because the lever is wider and easier to manipulate.
http://amzn.to/2bEcNY3

BNC Female w/ screw terminal - these are 75 ohm, designed for CCTV installs, but for receiver testing or low-power transmit they'll work OK.  Be aware that some adapters like this actually have baluns, which you don't want for RF testing.
http://amzn.to/2bE9Yq1

RJ45 screw terminal plug - kinda bulky, but it's great for designing cables on a bench.  When I'm done and have a working design, I build a real cable using CAT6 and an RJ45 crimper or a punch-down terminal block.
http://amzn.to/2bJ6pxr

Repost: How to fix a Toyota Brake Light

Note: This is a repost/update from my old blog. 

Toyota Highlanders are well made cars - I bought a 2004 for my wife who later upgraded to a Sienna minivan, so I took the Highlander for myself.  It's at 130,000 miles and still going strong.  However, apparently they have a known problem where the brake lights on one side will intermittently stop working.  I've had people pull up next to me at stop lights and tell me I have a light out, then I get home to find the light is fine.

Then recently the light went out and stayed out.  I replaced the bulbs but they remained out.  Fuses were fine, my trusty Fluke 77 said voltage was getting to the assembly.  Posters in Toyota forums said that dealers are asking $40 - $140 for diagnostic, plus possibly $300 to replace a "circuit board"...?  Sounds like a scam to me.

I did some searching online and found reference to how the contacts on the bulb holder will get compressed and not make proper contact. (Kudos to Berto for the original post and Kujath for the photos.)  Kujath suggested using a flat-blade screwdriver to bend the contacts a bit, but I think a needle-nose pliers works better since you can control the amount of bending.  I did both bulb holders and the lights are working just fine. 

Fixed: Toyota Highlander Brake Light

Note: This post has nothing to do with wireless. 

Toyota Highlanders are well made cars - I bought a 2004 for my wife who later upgraded to a Sienna minivan, so I took the Highlander for myself.  It's at 100,000 miles and still going strong.  However, apparently they have a known problem where the brake lights on one side will intermittently stop working.  I've had people pull up next to me at stop lights and tell me I have a light out, then I get home to find the light is fine.

Then recently the light went out and stayed out.  I replaced the bulbs but they remained out.  Fuses were fine, my trusty Fluke 77 said voltage was getting to the assembly.  Posters in Toyota forums said that dealers are asking $40 - $140 for diagnostic, plus possibly $300 to replace a "circuit board"...?  Sounds like a scam to me.

I did some searching online and found reference to how the contacts on the bulb holder will get compressed and not make proper contact. (Kudos to Berto for the original post and Kujath for the photos.)  Kujath suggested using a flat-blade screwdriver to bend the contacts a bit, but I think a needle-nose pliers works better since you can control the amount of bending.  I did both bulb holders and the lights are working just fine. 

TV repair tools: screwdriver, wrench, drill...Did you say "drill"?

A few weeks back my Samsung DLP TV went on the fritz; showing a green tile pattern when playing analog sources, and randomly freezing when playing HDMI sources. After doing some research I found that this is known problem in the digital board on the HLR5067WAX/XAA and other TVs in the series where the DNIe chip (which is a BGA-type package) develops a loose connection. (Root cause was probably a mistake in the solder mask or poor QC on application of the solder paste prior to chip placement.)

The problem can be resolved by (of course) purchasing a new digital board for hundreds of dollars. Some of the sharp minds in the peer forums over at Home Theater Shack have found that if you can apply pressure to the DNIe chip, the problem goes away. So I opted to follow the process outlined by Leonard and Tito over at HTS for installing a mechanical pressure arm to push on the DNIe chip. I figured it was a few bucks, a trip to the hardware store, and some of my time.

I built the arm into the digital board's RFI/EMI cover, adjusted it to apply just a bit of pressure, and re-assembled the TV. Works 100%. Saved myself a few hundred dollars and now I can say I once fixed a TV with a drill and a tube of Loctite.